Polynesia Tetiaroa, the island of Marlon Brando

Polynesia Tetiaroa, the island of Marlon Brando

Tumi's 26, the grace of a mermaid born of clear lagoon and a look in which birds fly to Wed She knows them all, they are his passion. Reef Heron, red-footed booby, sooty tern, black nodi, Commander of the Pacific. It follows each pair watch on litters, please do not disturb.Accompanying Tour and formed the wisdom of nature, Tumi is princess of Tetiaroa, the atoll of 6 square kilometers with 13 islets, here we say motu float 53 kilometers north of Tahiti. All Polynesians know that this cake coral topped with coconut and casuarina trees was once home to the royal Pomare dynasty (eighteenth and nineteenth centuries). Tahitian rulers had family there to the break here to recharge.

In this initial time, the sky was courteous and willing to dispense helpful advice government designated the traitors to sacrifice on the altar (marae) gods maho'i much as jeunettes to marry tomorrow. Mana, the spirit of the islands, then sealed a sensual harmony between a prodigal nature and serenity of men.

Kings have spun, mana remained. Today, Tetiaroa shines new light. Tumi also inherited the lights of his people, a wire stretched between sky and lagoon. Sure she can speak with the wind, flowers and stars. Just like his grandfather, Marlon Brando. He lived here from 1970 to 1990, Gorgeous Robinson: "My mind always calms me when I imagine the night sitting on my island in the Pacific," he recounted.

On July 1st, The Brando was inaugurated in Tetiaroa. A hotel outside the norm. Great news but no overwater bungalow 35 villas with private pools open on one of the most beautiful lagoons in the world, giant flat screens, Wi-Fi throughout, a gourmet restaurant, Mutiny, the card is signed Guy Martin ( 3-star Grand Véfour chef in Paris), a Polynesian spa with, among others, a treatment room in the trees, a beach bar that will quickly integrate a top ten international, a pinpoint service center Wildlife Research and the local flora which residents have access thousand à la carte activities and even fairly common tariffs (€ 3,500 a night, booking a minimum of three required). All inclusive is true: champagne, massages, meals, excursions ... Connoisseurs say "all inclusive" In short, a stash that they trust the secret in good fortunes, a refuge to dream all travelers looking elsewhere..

But beyond, The Brando wants to be the first 5-star 100% green, capable of displaying a total energy autonomy and near-zero carbon footprint. This is unprecedented.

The hotel is born of madness. That of Marlon, first. Came here in 1960 during the filming of Mutiny on the Bounty in waters where Fletcher Christian sparked the mutiny against Captain Bligh (1789), he returned with a wife, Tarita, who plays the role of Maimiti his Polynesian conquest on the screen, and the intention to acquire Tetiaroa, "It is even more beautiful than anything I could have imagined." atoll belongs to the daughter of a dentist who puts never stay. Two hundred thousand dollars later and after having promised not to cut down any tree endemic Brando takes its Polynesian kingdom. All his euphoria, he wants to make heaven on earth. His Year 01 to him, very, very far from the spotlights and Hollywood pretensions. He built 14 fare (house in Tahitian) wide open to the pale blue of the lagoon wonderful, just to share the emotion, sarong and bare feet in the sand, with a few stray pass. A Tarita, his children, the giant illuminates his utopia"to establish a self-sufficient community where Tetiaroa find themselves associated research and training, agriculture, aquaculture and tourism in a protected environment for the benefit of all. And create a clean community that does not upset the ecological balance of the lagoon. "

However, the dream to its realization ... A mini-hotel, a turtle farm and lobster, research conducted by the Cousteau Society, nothing works. In 1990, Brando left Tetiaroa. He will not return.

Fortunately, mana before. And if delirium generated the forefront? And if the dreamer crossed an entrepreneur? And if a common passion, they invented the impossible?Richard Bailey, everyone calls him Dick, is California. His student coil hides a happy sixties. Francophile Emeritus able to slide in the same sentence "paradigm" and"notwithstanding", Bailey has built in thirty years, the first hotel business of Polynesia.Ensign Pacific Beachcomber shines Tahiti, Moorea, Bora Bora (two locations), as well as two cruise ships including the famous Paul Gauguin.

In 1999, he met Brando here, there, elsewhere. Together, they speak kind, hotel, innovation, Polynesian heritage. It is decided, the grail will Tetiaroa.

"When we discussed the future of the atoll, we had the same vision: the absolute protection and non-negotiable nature (14 bird species, 158 plant species of which 38 are indigenous, 167 fish families, etc.), its available to scholars and visitors, the invention of a tourist site at close to zero impact. Marlon had a thousand ideas on the matter. I am committed to respect the spirit. "Brando died on July 1, 2004, and part of his ashes is scattered on the atoll. Dick returned to Tahiti with The Brando crafted and funded folder.

Nevermind the pitfalls. The nine heirs squabble, local environmentalists howling betrayal, no password complicating the arrival of construction machinery, disposal pits which Brando made his shock, the need to adjust the angle airstrip, Tahitian departments are reluctant ... On July 1, ten years to the day after the death of Marlon, Dick and Philippe Brovelli, his right arm has always Silvio Bion, appointed director, inaugurated the hotel The Brando. Mission accomplished.

Two of the son of the star are present. Teihotu, 46, son of Tarita and father of Tumi. It has long been the only inhabitant of Tetiaroa, preferring the song of the waves crashing down on the reef to the city lights. And Miko, born of another wife, its opposite, worshiping microphones, detailing his thirty years in Los Angeles with Michael Jackson.It came with a bottle of Eau Sauvage, immediately gave Dick Bailey: "He belonged to Marlon. You asparagus different parts of the hotel, Dad was still here. "Tumi smiled. She prefers the family privacy at the time a Hollywood idea of hosting caressed by the caste of Godfather plane piloted by Travolta on board with Brad and Angelina, De Niro and Nicholson, Madonna and Beyonce, Barbra, Sean, Leonardo ...

Glitter, perhaps, but the legacy Brando also required the sincerity and depth. Bailey was a duty to build a microcosm inspired, thought to win the energy battle. Three sources have been selected to power the field and 35 villas served by 150 staff. First, the SWAC (Sea Water Air Conditioning), a brilliant idea of ​​Brando. Its principle: draw water from the deep Pacific (here, 935 meters) where it is at 4 ° C through a pipe 2,5 kilometers long, to ensure cooling of the area and feed the spa water to the millennium purity.Cost: € 6.5 million and zero emissions. Second energy source, the sun. Some 2,400 solar panels are installed along 775 meters of the landing of the atoll track. This is enough to enlighten villas, platitudes (two restaurants, two bars, lounges) and staff quarters. Finally, for safety, a small unit of coconut oil processing (extract of coconut).Not to mention the recovery of rainwater, a station with seawater desalination and parsimonious use of groundwater.

Green diktat generates a quasi-military resource allocation: desalination is for bathrooms, the kitchen garden is watered with aboveground waste waters retired, laundry taps into the water, etc. And for travel, it's electric carts at the time of the household or service villa and bicycle when residents want to go around the atoll following the path slipped under the coconut grove or just go to the bar , the restaurant, the spa (2,000 m²) or on the tennis court covered with carpet so English turf.

A Tetiaroa, one rule of life laid down by Philippe Brovelli and Silvio Bion: "The mood.Everyone eats when he wants, drinks what he wants, does what he likes. "We can not invent most beautiful equation of happiness. As a result, some customers never leave their house. With 95 square for two (room star bed, bathroom and living room), a large sun terrace, a private pool, an ideal booth dinette eye to eye, a display connected to the world, service meters Standing butler and direct access to the beach Sirens (usually deserted) lined by a single blue lagoon, we understand.

Yet, it's impossible to resist the charm of the facilities of Brando. The beach restaurant and gourmet declination Mutiny, only 20 seats, reservation required, a short menu, delicious included in the base price and a cellar as grandiose references unexpected in these latitudes (surcharge). Guy Martin has delegated by Anthony Gonzalez, a passionate thirty to reinvent the island cuisine with mahi-mahi, tuna or bonito, also with the Saint-Jacques barely entered wrapped in yuzu juice and celery, shrimp toast Oil chorizo ​​broth flavored paella ...

Then the bars, feet in the sand in the middle of pandanus or perched on overlooking the expansive pool terrace. Architect and designer have adopted the idea of ​​the nest, pretty braided pockets of local wood. This success inspired Aurelian, head bartender inventor of twenty dedicated to Tetiaroa cocktails. Among others, the Dirty Old Bob (named assistant Marlon): bourbon, pineapple, honey from hives away from the coconut, green and bitter lemon. Or Tetiaroa Waters, referring to one of the blue lagoon: vodka infused in which of tiare flowers, grapefruit juice, coconut ice water, dash of curaçao.

Deep Nature Spa, finally, nestled in the palm grove, away from the villas. Daily care is included in the stay. Its designers promise recipes welfare such as invented Polynesian tradition.

Brando had demanded that these basic hotel are complemented by a sort of college islands, a study center for experts and scientists. Two entities thus complete the picture.The Tetiaroa Society, chaired by Hinano Bagnis, the research organization is installed on the atoll. Its high-tech lab can accommodate a dozen researchers who work on both the acidity of the ocean migration of humpback whales (July and August), the development of coral, white terns nest, the population of sharks and manta rays. As for the association Te Mana o te moana, it makes the link between the preservation of this fragile ecosystem and customers. Its president, veterinary Cecile Gaspar, is an expert on green turtles. His observations show that they are on a journey of three months and 4,500 kilometers to the Fiji before returning to spawn Tetiaroa, between October and March. Guests of Brando may accompany the researchers, who then become purveyors of knowledge. Similarly, they set out to discover the motus in the company of guides Te Mana o te moana. Side air and in the water to watch the damzelles these blue mini fish Klein smooch bouquets of coral. Approach, yes; admire, certainly; alter, no question.

When it comes to the curious Tahuna Iti, Motu birds, Tumi says, binoculars in hand, the red-bellied bulbul, ariel the frigate, the Crake, Grey-backed Tern. She never reveals his parentage, much less his pride in being the guardian of a treasure. His grandfather promised one day: "If I have the power, Tetiaroa will always be a place that will remind the Tahitians who they are and what they were centuries ago." Tumi look at the sky, open wide arms to provide the offshore wind and scents of ocean. It is the mana of Tetiaroa.

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Travel Notebook

Helpful

To prepare for the trip, check with Tahiti and its islands (01.53.43.53.95; www.tahiti-tourisme.fr ). Best season: May to September, during the austral winter. Time difference: 12 h. Silver: Although ultramarine territory annexed to France, Polynesia's currency the Pacific Franc (CFP). 1 € = 120 PSC.

Getting there

Air Tahiti Nui (0.825.02.42.02; www.airtahitinui.com ). The company regularly distinguished for the quality of its service and the smile of the staff on board (board is already in Polynesia), operates a daily flight between Paris and Papeete. It lasts 22 hours, 2 hours layover in Los Angeles included. Note that the equipment divers and golfers embarked free. In addition, as part of a promotional event of boarding houses in Polynesia, the company gives a discount of € 200 for stays of 10 nights in this type of accommodation. From € 1,700 in economy class and € 4,600 in business class. Alas, on inter-island flights operated by Air Tahiti local company, the baggage allowance is only 10kg. Beyond that, it's about 2 € extra kg.

Formalities

The French come in Polynesia with a valid passport, but the American forces stop passengers from Paris to complete the ESTA form of entry into the United States. (https://esta.cbp.dhs.gov ).

Go to Tetiaroa

The hotel The Brando transports customers from Tahiti (600 € A / R).

The hotel

Thirty-five villas set in coconut plantations and opening onto the beach. A real postcard.Most are designed for a couple and can also accommodate a child. They measure 95 m2 and include at least one bedroom, one bathroom with two sinks, an indoor lounge, a large sun terrace, a private pool and gazebo shelter. Service coverage 24/24. Tahitian show performed by employees. The price, € 3500 per night for a one bedroom villa (3 night minimum required) is all inclusive meals, alcohol (except major labels), internet, laundry, daily spa treatment !, trips, use canoes, canoes, paddles, etc. Some villas have 2 bedrooms, a villa has 3 ( www.thebrando.com ).

What to do

Participate in excursions run by Te Mana o te moana: discovering birds, diving, meeting with turtles ... Also interested in the research of the Tetiaroa Society. Sampling, banding fish, analyzes ...

Madness

Tetiaroa is even more beautiful view of the sky. Authorization of the hotel, it is possible to fly by helicopter to the atoll a huge bath of blue, gold, green and white.Unforgettable. Other possible excursions: overview of Tahiti or Moorea connections and Bora Bora. Photos grandiose guarantees. The devices can carry up to 5 passengers. The price depends on the length of the flight. One company, Tahiti Helicopters provides these benefits (00.689.40.50.40.75;. www.tahiti-helicopters.com ).

The magic moment

A bank of white sand, a colony of Nodis black and white terns posed above, bright sun, blue and green of the lagoon, the breeze ...

The flat

The question on the side balcony bath villas. We would have preferred a tropical outdoor shower, safe from pandanus and casuarina trees.

To see

Mutiny on the Bounty (1962), of course. The excellent "Tiki Pop" exhibition at the Musée du Quai Branly in Paris, until September 28, where we find Marlon Brando (see article on page 76).